“Prosciutto is an open book, telling the story of its previous life, and it always tells the truth,” jokes Daniele Montali, who runs this ham production company which opened in 1949. Behind PDO Parma Ruliano are excellent thighs of heavy pigs raised comme il faut, experience, a series of strategies resulting from a lifetime’s work, and the environment: cellars rich in enzymes where the hams are aged for 24–36 months. Also recommended is the spalla cruda, an old Parma Ruliano charcuterie product renamed Rudis Armus.

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