It took some time to fully understand the characteristics of the Pecorino grape, but today wineries are increasingly mastering its potential, even though the recent rise in temperatures has not been particularly helpful. This grape variety has a mountain-like nature, preferring cool areas and north-facing exposures. As it ripens, it quickly accumulates sugars, running the risk—if harvest timing is not carefully managed—of producing wines that are overly warm in the glass. Fortunately, it benefits from a solid acidic backbone, but even here, the timing of the harvest is crucial. In short, this is a grape that requires a great deal of care. However, when winemakers succeed in this challenging task (which is becoming ever more difficult), Pecorino wines stand second to none: the resulting wines boast savoury palates, solid and even rich structures supported by acidity—sometimes razor-sharp—and a saline undertone.
Pecorino: a wine for ageing
Pecorino is a wine that does not fear ageing, as we observed during a tasting of old vintages held last year at Vinitaly. In the best versions, the flavours intensify, the aromas start to dance between spices and hydrocarbons, and the acidity highlights all these sensations. So, a piece of advice: since almost all Pecorino wines are released one year after the harvest (for instance, in 2025, many wineries will release their 2024 vintage), once purchased, we suggest not rushing to drink it. Store it in your cellar and take it out after at least a couple of years to fully enjoy its unique characteristics.
The origin of the Pecorino grape
Marche or Abruzzo? This is the age-old debate regarding the origins of Pecorino, a Central Italian grape variety that has been a leading figure in the white wine sector of these two regions for about twenty years now. The history of the grape is well known: it was rediscovered in the 1990s after almost disappearing into oblivion. It was found in an area where three regions— Marche,Abruzzo, and Lazio —intersect.
In the small village of Arquata del Tronto, at 1000 metres above sea level and in the shadow of Monte Vettore, a small, semi-abandoned vineyard preserved this grape, which had nearly vanished elsewhere. Winemakers from the Piceno area adopted it and brought it down to the sun-drenched hills, caressed by the Adriatic breezes. Similarly, those in Abruzzo recognised its potential and began planting it across the region, from Teramo to Vasto, including the inland areas rising up towards the slopes of the Gran Sasso and Majella.
Pecorino wines with the best value for money
Another significant advantage (for consumers, less so for producers) is the cost of Pecorino wine. In both Abruzzo and Marche, a high-quality Pecorino has a good quality-price ratio. The following list is quite extensive: these are, in our opinion, the best Pecorino wines we tasted for the Berebene 2025 and Vini d'Italia 2025 guides by Gambero Rosso. Enjoy!
Abruzzo
The Pecorino Giocheremo con i Fiori 2023 by Torre dei Beati is refined and sunny on the nose, taut, savoury, light, and linear on the palate.
It was in 1999 that Adriana Galasso and Fausto Albanesi decided to change their lives and dedicate themselves to wine production. Their adventure takes place in the hills of Loreto Aprutino, one of the most prestigious wine areas in Abruzzo. From the very beginning, they chose to combine viticulture with environmental respect, immediately adopting organic farming protocols. Their vineyards are located on hills reaching 300 metres above sea level, positioned between the Gran Sasso and the Adriatic Sea. Every year, Adriana and Fausto continue to produce incredible wines that express their territory, character, and sheer quality.
The Tullum Pecorino Biologico 2023 from Feudo Antico captivated us with its fresh notes of mountain meadows, green and yellow citrus peels, and delicate hints of flint. On the palate, it melts into a sip of great gustatory precision, playing with citrusy reminiscences, deep and remarkably progressive.
Feudo Antico is a small cooperative dedicated to enhancing the Tullum DOCG, one of Italy’s smallest denominations. Since 2004, they have focused on the potential of this land, including exceptional locations such as Pedine, Colle Secco, San Pietro, and Colle di Campli. They have also carried out experimental projects at Casadonna by Niko Romito in Castel di Sangro, at over 800 metres altitude. The cooperative consists of about fifty members who cultivate around twenty hectares of micro-plots, cared for with meticulous attention to environmental sustainability.
photo by Cataldi Madonna | www.facebook.com/cataldimadonna/
The Giulia '23 from Cataldi Madonna evokes aromatic sensations that transport us to the mountains, across flower-filled meadows and rocks, followed by citrus notes of lime and white grapefruit. The palate is taut and very savory, with a finely flavorful finish.
We are in Ofena, commonly known as “the oven of Abruzzo” due to the high summer temperatures, which, however, drop sharply when Gran Sasso asserts its mountain influence. These temperature fluctuations are a key characteristic of the territory, which Giulia Cataldi Madonna expertly harnesses to craft her wines. Her Montepulciano, Trebbiano, and Pecorino wines highlight both varietal and terroir characteristics. As is widely known, Pecorino is the specialty of the house.
After achieving success in luxury footwear, Gennaro Pigliacampo decided to invest in agriculture, creating an estate with olive groves, cereal fields, natural pastures, and, of course, vineyards. His wines are increasingly convincing: a prime example is this Pecorino, featuring a bouquet of citrus and sun-kissed notes, emphasized by smoky hints, with a taut and textbook-flavored palate.
The Galasso family leads one of the most historically significant wineries in Abruzzo: San Lorenzo Vini. Their vineyards, covering over 170 hectares, stretch along the ridges of the Colline Teramane in Castilenti, positioned between the Adriatic coast and the Gran Sasso foothills. The Pecorino '23 impressed us with its mountain herbs and aromatic notes, leading to a mouthfeel with good progression and remarkable flavor.
Adamo and Matteo Zappacosta, father and son, manage a small four-hectare vineyard in the hills between Bucchianico and Chieti. Their Pecorino '23 stood out with an intriguing flinty sensation combined with lemon pulp, creating an elegant and precise aromatic profile, leading to a palate of remarkable gustatory precision—pleasant without being banal.
Marche
The Pecorino Maree is among the finest white wines in the region: aged in stainless steel, it features precise notes of lemon, peach, hints of wild herbs, and anise; on the palate, it is fruity, savoury, irresistibly drinkable, with a lingering finish.
Paolo Petracci founded the winery in 2002 in the inland area of Fermo, in a valley with gentle slopes, sunny and well-ventilated thanks to the thermal influence of the Adriatic Sea, visible from the hilltop where the agritourism and winery are located. Today, his work is shared with his son Carlo, who has a degree in oenology. For years, Madonnabruna has relied on the expertise of Aroldo Bellelli.
The Onirocep '23 from Pantaleone offers an intense memory of freshly cut grass, anise, and lemon peel, with a crisp, coherent, saline, and refreshing palate. A wine with depth and a firm backbone.
The Pantaloni family—sisters Federica and Francesca, their father Nazzareno (who manages the vineyards), and Francesca's husband, Peppe Infriccioli, an expert cellar master—have developed a range of wines that fully express the cold microclimate of Monte Ascensione.
Simone Spinelli had an excellent intuition when he decided to plant Pecorino in the Castel di Croce area: while relying on the "mountain" temperament of the white variety from Piceno, one always had to consider the considerable altitude and the cold impact of Monte Ascensione. This way, the Artemisia has found even more verve: the '23 openly displays explosive citrus-driven aromas and a nimble, piercing, and highly savoury sip.
Paolo Beretta and Paola Massi, owners of the Fiorano winery in the heart of Piceno, have a range of labels with consistently high quality. Sealing this trend for many years has been the Donna Orgilla, a Pecorino true to its varietal identity, offering notes that intertwine citrus, anise, aromatic herbs, and subtle grassy hints; on the palate, it shows dynamism tied to its acidic backbone and a seductive finish between fruit and salinity.
The most representative wine of the Castignano cooperative is undoubtedly the Montemisio, named after the sanctuary at the foot of Monte Ascensione, which is somewhat symbolic of the more inland areas of Piceno. Made from Pecorino grapes aged in steel, it has always boasted one of the best quality-price ratios, confirmed again in the 2023 vintage: notes of wild herbs, citrus, and anise chase each other in a soft, flavoursome, and progressively expressive palate.
The 2022 version of Quinti Alfonsi’s Pecorino intensely smells of freshly cut grass, citron peel, and green anise, combined with fascinating mineral hints and delicate smoky nuances. The palate is impressive for how it manages to express energy, dynamism, and a vibrant salty imprint that lingers long in the finish. A rugged and mountainous wine, with great character and a faithful interpretation of its varietal identity.
The Pecorino '23 from Tenuta Santori recalls white peach, anise, and vegetal strokes in a mouthfeel with an acidic and saline temperament. Twelve years have passed since Marco Santori began his venture, and he has made considerable progress with measured steps. The spacious and well-structured winery has been complemented by a restored farmhouse atop the hill, now serving as a tasting room and holiday home. There has also been a gradual expansion—again, without overdoing it—of the vineyard area, primarily dedicated to traditional grape varieties. A novelty is the Entroterra line, which will represent the highest selection in the future.
The Mercantino '23 capitalises on its youthful verve, offering a pleasant mouthfeel with notes of white fruit and aromatic herbs. Colli Ripani has long been a great example of cooperation in service of the territory. Under the leadership of President Giovanni Traini and head oenologist Marco Pignotti, there has been a strong focus on organic farming and sustainability, with undeniable benefits for vineyard integrity and, consequently, the final product. Naturally, a cooperative managing 800 hectares offers a very wide and diverse range, catering to all budgets and preferences.
Azienda Le Caniette
Everything is going full steam ahead at Le Caniette, the winery run by Giovanni "Johnny" Vagnoni. This is no coincidence but the result of long-term planning, with key principles established well in advance: great attention to agricultural practices that strictly adhere to organic regulations, a well-thought-out use of small oak barrels—even for whites such as the structured Veronica '22 or Iosonogaia (whose new vintage is still ageing)—and sensory profiles that are well-articulated aromatically yet never lose sight of drinkability and the softness of tannins. All this is executed in a winery that seamlessly blends functionality with architectural and landscape beauty.
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